Civet de Lièvre

There’s a certain quiet that settles over the Loire Valley in late October — the vines turning to fire, the mist clinging to the riverbanks, the first scent of woodsmoke curling through the air. In small kitchens tucked behind stone walls, the old rhythm returns: the slow simmer of game in red wine, the patience of a dish that takes its time becoming something extraordinary.

 

Civet de Lièvre is not a meal for hurry. It’s a ritual. The hare is marinated overnight in wine and herbs until the scent alone could make a hunter weep — thyme, bay, peppercorns, juniper, garlic. The next day, the meat meets the heat, browned in lard and sealed in its destiny: a long, slow marriage with wine, carrots, onions, and the dark alchemy of blood or a little chocolate — both traditional, both mysterious, both beautiful.

 

The sauce thickens to something that clings to the spoon and coats the heart. It’s the kind of dish you serve when the rain refuses to stop, when the candles flicker, when the only sound left is the bubbling of the cocotte.

 

No two civets are alike — every cook, every village, every grandmother adds her whisper to the pot. In the Loire, it’s often a touch of Cognac or a spoon of rabbit’s blood for that rich, silken depth. In other regions, a bit of bitter chocolate replaces it, like a secret no one quite admits.

 

Serve it with potatoes puréed so smooth they could comfort a saint, or ribbons of fresh tagliatelle that soak up every drop of sauce. And pour yourself a generous glass of the same red wine you cooked it with. The hare deserves it. So do you.

 

Recipe: Civet de Lièvre (Loire Valley Hare Stew)

 

Serves: 6

 

Ingredients

 

• 1.2–1.5 kg hare (2½–3 lb), jointed into pieces

• 1 bottle full-bodied red wine (Bourgueil or Chinon preferred)

• 100 g lardons (3½ oz)

• 2 carrots, sliced

• 2 onions, roughly chopped

• 3 garlic cloves, crushed

• 2 bay leaves

• 4 sprigs thyme

• 1 tsp juniper berries

• 1 tbsp flour

• 2 tbsp Cognac (optional)

• 25 g dark chocolate (optional, instead of blood; about 1 oz)

• 2 tbsp hare’s or rabbit’s blood (optional, traditional thickener)

• 2 tbsp butter (or goose fat)

• Salt and pepper to taste

 

Instructions

 

1. Marinate the hare. The day before, place the hare, carrots, onions, herbs, and peppercorns in a large bowl. Pour over the wine, cover, and marinate overnight in a cool place.

2. Prepare the stew. Drain the meat and vegetables, keeping the wine aside. Pat the hare pieces dry. In a heavy cocotte, brown the lardons until crisp, remove, then brown the hare pieces on all sides.

3. Add the aromatics. Add the drained vegetables and garlic, cooking until lightly golden. Sprinkle with flour, stir well, and pour in the reserved wine. Add the herbs, lardons, and Cognac if using.

4. Simmer slowly. Bring to a gentle boil, then lower the heat. Cover and simmer for about 2½–3 hours, until the meat is tender and nearly falling from the bone.

5. Finish the sauce. Strain the liquid and reduce slightly over medium heat. Whisk in a spoon of blood or the chocolate for richness. Return the sauce to the hare and heat gently for a few minutes.

6. Serve. Season with salt and pepper. Serve piping hot with puréed potatoes, buttered noodles, or a chunk of country bread.

 

Wine pairing

 

Stay in the valley — a Chinon Rouge or Bourgueil, both Cabernet Franc wines, bring that herbal, graphite depth that sings with game. If you prefer a softer note, a Saumur-Champigny with its silky texture and bright fruit will make every bite feel like velvet.

 

As the last spoon scrapes the cocotte, remember: in France, the best dishes are not born from recipes but from weather, hunger, and the courage to wait.

 

And if you ever find yourself in a village along the Loire on a misty November evening, follow the scent of red wine and thyme drifting from an open window — someone, somewhere, is making civet.