Cèpes à la Bordelaise

When the vineyards of Bordeaux are brushed with gold and the mornings smell faintly of woodsmoke, you know it’s time for cèpes. Those noble porcini mushrooms — fat, fragrant, and earthbound — appear like treasure in the forest, hidden under oak leaves still damp from the night’s mist.

 

Locals carry small knives and wicker baskets, whispering to one another as though afraid to wake the trees. The first cut through the stem releases a scent so deep, so buttery and nutty, that you might mistake it for the perfume of the earth itself. And then, back home, it’s a race — to clean, to slice, to fry, before the delicate flesh begins to darken.

 

In Bordeaux, cèpes à la Bordelaise is the way generations have honored this gift of autumn. It’s a dish that needs no grand gestures. Just olive oil, butter, garlic, parsley, and a handful of breadcrumbs to catch every drop of their golden juices. Some add a whisper of Bordeaux red — not to drown the flavor, but to give it depth, like a cello note beneath the violins.

 

The smell that fills the kitchen is like walking through a forest where the floor has turned to butter. The mushrooms sizzle, the breadcrumbs toast, and you swirl your glass of wine as the day outside folds into dusk.

 

Serve them on thick country bread, or beside a roast duck, or even stirred through fresh tagliatelle. But if you ask me, the best way is the simplest: just as they are, in the pan, with a fork and someone you love leaning over your shoulder.

 

Recipe: Cèpes à la Bordelaise

 

Serves: 4

 

Ingredients

 

• 500 g fresh cèpes (porcini mushrooms), cleaned and thickly sliced (about 1 lb 2 oz)

• 2 tbsp olive oil

• 30 g unsalted butter (2 tbsp)

• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

• 2 tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped

• 2 tbsp dry breadcrumbs

• 50 ml Bordeaux red wine (about ¼ cup, optional)

• Fleur de sel and freshly ground black pepper

 

Instructions

 

1. Prepare the cèpes. Gently wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp cloth — never wash them under water. Slice the larger ones in halves or quarters.

2. Sauté the garlic. In a large skillet, heat olive oil and butter over medium heat. Add garlic and let it release its fragrance — not brown, just whispering golden.

3. Add the cèpes. Turn the heat to high, add the mushrooms, and sauté until they begin to brown and give off their juices — about 5–6 minutes.

4. Deglaze (optional). Add a splash of Bordeaux wine and let it reduce for a minute. The scent at this point could make angels jealous.

5. Finish with breadcrumbs. Sprinkle breadcrumbs and parsley into the pan, tossing quickly so they soak up the juices and turn crisp.

6. Season & serve. Add a pinch of fleur de sel and black pepper. Serve immediately, with crusty bread to chase the last drops of butter.

 

Wine pairing

 

The Bordelais would naturally pour a Saint-Émilion or Pomerol — both Merlot-driven reds with soft tannins that echo the earthy sweetness of the cèpes. But for a lighter touch, a Graves Blanc, with its grassy minerality and hint of smoke, is divine.

 

If you’re cooking near the fire, the bottle should stay close enough to warm — the way the French do when they don’t want the chill to reach their glass or their heart.

 

And if you ever wander through the forests near Saint-Émilion in October, listen for the faint crunch of leaves and the quiet laughter of mushroom hunters. Somewhere nearby, someone is already dreaming of lunch.